The Trip...
On 27 September 2012 Don Cameron & Margie Gleeson will leave their jobs, house, friends and the dog flying away to who knows where. This is the story of that trip.
Here are the first days Hong Kong to England
The Beginning Sydney to Hong Kong the first days....
dragon fruit the colours of HK
The good news started with an innocuous txt on Wednesday 26 September. It read
“Your points upgrade to Business on QF0127 Syd tio HKG 27 Sept @ 10.40 has been confirmed. Enjoy your flight”
We were up a tad too early on Thursday and at the airport by 8.30. Through the check in in about 10 minutes courtesy of the rather short Business Class line. By 9.10 am we were inside the customs and ready to board. Unfortunately Qantas was disinclined to get off early despite the fact that were ready to go and so a cup of average airport coffee and some time on the internet to catch up on those last minute emails.
Soon enough however we were settled in our business class seats and enjoying the pre flight drink. The giant metal beast lumbered into the air and before I know it the recently flooded channel country of western Queensland was stretched out 30,000 feet below.
Lunch was heralded by an offer, very welcome, of a glass of wine and I chose the chardonnay. The menu revealed that Neil Perry had been beavering away in the galley. Both Margie & I chose the Duck Terrine with a spicy chutney to start and it was pretty good although I did need another glass of chardonnay to wash it down. Then I had the Blue Eye Cod ( so Perry with the eastern spices very evident) and silver beet. Margie had the polenta with olives and roast vegetables which she thought was a bit overcooked. A top up on the Chardonnay could not be refused. We both finished with a rather good couple of cheeses and I washed them down with a nice para port. All in all a pretty fine meal seeing we hurtling through the air 30,000’ above the arid parts of central Australia.
Must have been the altitude but after lunch I was feeling a bit tired and for once there was no reason not to have a nap. Then a rather good movie (Le Chef) and the Captain was announcing our decent into Hong Kong. All in all a pretty enjoyable and relaxing flight.
With their trade mark efficiency the locals had us through customs and in the cab heading for our hotel within 35 minutes of touching down. There was a slight hiccup when it turned out there were 2 Langham hotels in Kowloon (should have stayed at the Peninsula as there is only one of them , probably in the world). However I turned up the exact address on the laptop and we were ensconced in our room 22 floors above Shanghai Rd.
The Langham’s Cantonese Restaurant, the Ming Court, had 2 Michelin Stars so we decided to eat in house that night. We scrummage through the bags to find some suitable clothes have a quick soak in a good sized bath and we are off for another dining experience. Choice seemed too difficult so we go for the 7 course degustation with 3 wines. HK$1125 per head sounds a lot but not so bad when you realize it is AU$134.00. To be honest the food is pretty bland and the thickening of most dishes with corn flour was not really to our taste. Perhaps the Americans like it. Also the Chilean Chardonnay would have been hit for six by any number of Aussie Chards that you could buy for $15 a bottle. The ambience was refined and the service attentive but reserved. Even if we found some parts of the food not to our taste (please bring back flavor) the experience put a pleasing end to the first day and the start of the journey.
The Langham’s big comfortable bed beckoned a welcome welcome.
28th September 2012
I have been to Hong Kong before but much has changed since my fleeting trip with some of the boys from the Albury Rugby Club to catch the Annual 7’s Tournament in 1994. That was a boozy wild time with the World Rugby Community descending on the tiny island. There were some memorable moments that time but the touring rugby code quarantines any telling of these stories. The code of “what happens on tour stays on tour” has to be respected.
This time I have come to Hong Kong to break the long flight as well as buy some clothes. Finding a tailor here is not difficult. There are thousands. Any number of Indian gentlemen are waiting on any corner to take you down the road to their tailor shop. A quick look on the net however increases the anxiety, as there are a lot of negative comments, especially about the celebrity types such as Sams Tailoring. Comments like “ ill-fitting and I haven’t been able to wear it” or “obviously I wasn’t famous enough” abound. After some research we settle on Empire Tailor and head off in a taxi to find his shop. The proprietor Anthony seems helpful and not pushy. We choose the fabrics and he arranges for us to come back for a fitting about 6 hours later (that sounds a bit quick for a suit with 2 pairs of trousers, a dinner suit and jacket with 2 pairs of trousers for Margie) but we agree on a time later in the day.
When we got back the basic cut outs were ready and some adjustments made.
We agreed to come back at 3 pm on Monday to pick up the finished articles. This would still leave a couple of hours to make any final adjustments.
Another Chinese Restaurant, much more down market but still not all that great. A piglet roasted then done much like Peking Duch with the outer skin and flesh cut off the bones then re-arranged on a plate to resemble the original animal, head and all. A trifle off putting actually. Deep fried Alaskan King Crab was tasty but too much fried batter. We’d originally ordered it steamed but that could not be done for some reason. Chef’s prerogative perhaps.
The language barrier and the fact that we are not in the part of HK where they get a lot of westerners is making it hard.
“Your points upgrade to Business on QF0127 Syd tio HKG 27 Sept @ 10.40 has been confirmed. Enjoy your flight”
We were up a tad too early on Thursday and at the airport by 8.30. Through the check in in about 10 minutes courtesy of the rather short Business Class line. By 9.10 am we were inside the customs and ready to board. Unfortunately Qantas was disinclined to get off early despite the fact that were ready to go and so a cup of average airport coffee and some time on the internet to catch up on those last minute emails.
Soon enough however we were settled in our business class seats and enjoying the pre flight drink. The giant metal beast lumbered into the air and before I know it the recently flooded channel country of western Queensland was stretched out 30,000 feet below.
Lunch was heralded by an offer, very welcome, of a glass of wine and I chose the chardonnay. The menu revealed that Neil Perry had been beavering away in the galley. Both Margie & I chose the Duck Terrine with a spicy chutney to start and it was pretty good although I did need another glass of chardonnay to wash it down. Then I had the Blue Eye Cod ( so Perry with the eastern spices very evident) and silver beet. Margie had the polenta with olives and roast vegetables which she thought was a bit overcooked. A top up on the Chardonnay could not be refused. We both finished with a rather good couple of cheeses and I washed them down with a nice para port. All in all a pretty fine meal seeing we hurtling through the air 30,000’ above the arid parts of central Australia.
Must have been the altitude but after lunch I was feeling a bit tired and for once there was no reason not to have a nap. Then a rather good movie (Le Chef) and the Captain was announcing our decent into Hong Kong. All in all a pretty enjoyable and relaxing flight.
With their trade mark efficiency the locals had us through customs and in the cab heading for our hotel within 35 minutes of touching down. There was a slight hiccup when it turned out there were 2 Langham hotels in Kowloon (should have stayed at the Peninsula as there is only one of them , probably in the world). However I turned up the exact address on the laptop and we were ensconced in our room 22 floors above Shanghai Rd.
The Langham’s Cantonese Restaurant, the Ming Court, had 2 Michelin Stars so we decided to eat in house that night. We scrummage through the bags to find some suitable clothes have a quick soak in a good sized bath and we are off for another dining experience. Choice seemed too difficult so we go for the 7 course degustation with 3 wines. HK$1125 per head sounds a lot but not so bad when you realize it is AU$134.00. To be honest the food is pretty bland and the thickening of most dishes with corn flour was not really to our taste. Perhaps the Americans like it. Also the Chilean Chardonnay would have been hit for six by any number of Aussie Chards that you could buy for $15 a bottle. The ambience was refined and the service attentive but reserved. Even if we found some parts of the food not to our taste (please bring back flavor) the experience put a pleasing end to the first day and the start of the journey.
The Langham’s big comfortable bed beckoned a welcome welcome.
28th September 2012
I have been to Hong Kong before but much has changed since my fleeting trip with some of the boys from the Albury Rugby Club to catch the Annual 7’s Tournament in 1994. That was a boozy wild time with the World Rugby Community descending on the tiny island. There were some memorable moments that time but the touring rugby code quarantines any telling of these stories. The code of “what happens on tour stays on tour” has to be respected.
This time I have come to Hong Kong to break the long flight as well as buy some clothes. Finding a tailor here is not difficult. There are thousands. Any number of Indian gentlemen are waiting on any corner to take you down the road to their tailor shop. A quick look on the net however increases the anxiety, as there are a lot of negative comments, especially about the celebrity types such as Sams Tailoring. Comments like “ ill-fitting and I haven’t been able to wear it” or “obviously I wasn’t famous enough” abound. After some research we settle on Empire Tailor and head off in a taxi to find his shop. The proprietor Anthony seems helpful and not pushy. We choose the fabrics and he arranges for us to come back for a fitting about 6 hours later (that sounds a bit quick for a suit with 2 pairs of trousers, a dinner suit and jacket with 2 pairs of trousers for Margie) but we agree on a time later in the day.
When we got back the basic cut outs were ready and some adjustments made.
We agreed to come back at 3 pm on Monday to pick up the finished articles. This would still leave a couple of hours to make any final adjustments.
Another Chinese Restaurant, much more down market but still not all that great. A piglet roasted then done much like Peking Duch with the outer skin and flesh cut off the bones then re-arranged on a plate to resemble the original animal, head and all. A trifle off putting actually. Deep fried Alaskan King Crab was tasty but too much fried batter. We’d originally ordered it steamed but that could not be done for some reason. Chef’s prerogative perhaps.
The language barrier and the fact that we are not in the part of HK where they get a lot of westerners is making it hard.
The Hong Kong markets
The next couple of days in Hong Konk
29th September 2012
I woke a little more relaxed today. Is it because it is Saturday or because the holiday feeling is starting to kick in? I really don’t know and in any event who cares.
We didn’t eat in the hotel this morning. Thought that perhaps there was a better deal than paying HK$450 for a breakfast where we didn’t really eat all that much. Although looking at the piled plates and frequent revisits to the buffet of some of the larger members of the human race who were also staying in the hotel I can sympathize with the pricing.
Still an average omelette and coffee across the road costs just HK$55 and seemed a better deal.
Then we are off to the Supermarket to stock up on some goodies so we don’t have to empty the bar fridge (and take a second mortgage on the house to sign out of here). I buy a pair of sandals. The weather demanded shorts that look a touch uncool with my high-heeled RM’s. Then we are off to the local food market to get a few excellent shots as well as doing a bit of Hong Kong bargaining. Wow did I teach those boys how to negotiate. Two oranges and 4 bananas for $25. Bet their heads are still spinning.
In the afternoon we took a ride on the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island and then a bus to the Stanley Markets. Whilst looking for the bus terminal I bought a SimCard to try and get my mobile going. There was a friendly looking Pub close by and I needed to put the Sim card in the phone. In addition the AFL Grand Final was being broadcast so we stopped for a beer and Caesar Salad and I got the mobile working. When I turned around to leave I found Margie hugging some random bloke who turned out to be Damien Sims (Simmsy) on route back home to Albury from China. It was nice to catch up with a familiar face for a bit of a chat.
The Stanley Markets were much better than I remembered and both Margie & I actually bought a couple of things which we were still happy with when we got home (not something that often happens to me at a market). Margie got a lovely stitched black Chinese Jacket for AU$35 and I got cashmere jumper & white scarf (to wear with my dinner jacket) for all up AU$124. By this stage I’d largely admitted defeat on the negotiations. I am seriously thinking of importing some of these stall owners to be S & G’s negotiators in MVA and PL cases.
On return from the market it was dinner time and we were both getting a bit tired of the Chinese cooking . In addition Margie’s sinus were well and truly blocked up by either the air conditioning or the weather changes. So we thought Thai food maybe a good option. We headed off to Arun Thai were the owner, Signavong Kham, whom we knew of from his Macleay St Restaurant in Kings Cross, spent a good deal of the evening chatting to us and plying us with free wine. In return we congratulated him on his excellent restaurant (this went down well as it turned out his son was cooking). Margie got her hot soup (which temporarily cleared the sinus) and we followed with some green papaya salad, BBQ chilli prawns and a red duck curry. Mmm real flavour. As usual we ordered too much but I am hitting the scales daily to ensure I keep that waist line within acceptable limits.
All in all a wonderful evening.
I woke a little more relaxed today. Is it because it is Saturday or because the holiday feeling is starting to kick in? I really don’t know and in any event who cares.
We didn’t eat in the hotel this morning. Thought that perhaps there was a better deal than paying HK$450 for a breakfast where we didn’t really eat all that much. Although looking at the piled plates and frequent revisits to the buffet of some of the larger members of the human race who were also staying in the hotel I can sympathize with the pricing.
Still an average omelette and coffee across the road costs just HK$55 and seemed a better deal.
Then we are off to the Supermarket to stock up on some goodies so we don’t have to empty the bar fridge (and take a second mortgage on the house to sign out of here). I buy a pair of sandals. The weather demanded shorts that look a touch uncool with my high-heeled RM’s. Then we are off to the local food market to get a few excellent shots as well as doing a bit of Hong Kong bargaining. Wow did I teach those boys how to negotiate. Two oranges and 4 bananas for $25. Bet their heads are still spinning.
In the afternoon we took a ride on the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island and then a bus to the Stanley Markets. Whilst looking for the bus terminal I bought a SimCard to try and get my mobile going. There was a friendly looking Pub close by and I needed to put the Sim card in the phone. In addition the AFL Grand Final was being broadcast so we stopped for a beer and Caesar Salad and I got the mobile working. When I turned around to leave I found Margie hugging some random bloke who turned out to be Damien Sims (Simmsy) on route back home to Albury from China. It was nice to catch up with a familiar face for a bit of a chat.
The Stanley Markets were much better than I remembered and both Margie & I actually bought a couple of things which we were still happy with when we got home (not something that often happens to me at a market). Margie got a lovely stitched black Chinese Jacket for AU$35 and I got cashmere jumper & white scarf (to wear with my dinner jacket) for all up AU$124. By this stage I’d largely admitted defeat on the negotiations. I am seriously thinking of importing some of these stall owners to be S & G’s negotiators in MVA and PL cases.
On return from the market it was dinner time and we were both getting a bit tired of the Chinese cooking . In addition Margie’s sinus were well and truly blocked up by either the air conditioning or the weather changes. So we thought Thai food maybe a good option. We headed off to Arun Thai were the owner, Signavong Kham, whom we knew of from his Macleay St Restaurant in Kings Cross, spent a good deal of the evening chatting to us and plying us with free wine. In return we congratulated him on his excellent restaurant (this went down well as it turned out his son was cooking). Margie got her hot soup (which temporarily cleared the sinus) and we followed with some green papaya salad, BBQ chilli prawns and a red duck curry. Mmm real flavour. As usual we ordered too much but I am hitting the scales daily to ensure I keep that waist line within acceptable limits.
All in all a wonderful evening.
Hong Kong the up market side
Art and humour of Hong Kong
The last days in Hong Kong & off to London
30 September 2012
Today we are just exploring Hong Kong. We check out the Peninsula Hotel and some of the areas along Nathan Rd. Nothing much doing today until we go up for the Spa and Massage at 5pm in our Hotel.
A bit of indulgence and we are feeling so laid back that we eat in the Hotel. Not the 2 Star Michelin Restaurant this time.
A relaxing day.
1 October 2012
Well today we are checking out and heading off to London. The flight does not leave until 11.45pm so we have the whole day to fill in.
As we are not required to book out until 12 noon we go for a bit of wander around the hotel looking for “the Ladies Market”. We find it but as it doesn’t start until midday we have a coffee and a bite and head back to the Hotel to finish packing and book out. Then back to the ladies market….more of the same and stuff not as good as the Stanley Market so we don’t buy much.
Then we take the ferry to Hong Kong Island and have a look around the very flash shops. Prada, Armani and Versace. Wow who has that much money? The silliest thing we saw was a shop for Armani Junior. You can deck out that precious child so he or she looks a bit like shrunken version of the catwalk heroes. Who would have thought that in a communist country we could see the worst excesses of capitalism gone mad?
Back to Kowloon to pick up our less expensive but very nicely tailored clothes. Everything fits like a glove and both Margie & I are pretty happy. The new white dinner jacket looks very smart and would look even better if the head coming out the top wasn’t quite so rough.
Although we had booked out we could still use the hotels facilities so a session in the steam room and good shower washed away some of the days grime. Some fresh clothes and we off to find a Vietnamese restaurant that wasn’t too far off.
In this part of Kowloon seeing westerners in such a restaurant is a bit of a novelty and not everyone speaks or understands any English. However if you have money they are happy to see you and again the food is pretty good (still have to request some more chilli). Margie has pho. They just call it soup here as she is still struggling with blocked sinus and headaches. With 3 Vietnamese beers the bill is almost AU$100 and the food not as good as Minhs in Sydney.
Today is a holiday and fireworks are scheduled for 9pm. Just as we are travelling to the airport, bugger. I don’t think the taxi driver is too keen on missing it either though you never hear a complaint.
Today we are just exploring Hong Kong. We check out the Peninsula Hotel and some of the areas along Nathan Rd. Nothing much doing today until we go up for the Spa and Massage at 5pm in our Hotel.
A bit of indulgence and we are feeling so laid back that we eat in the Hotel. Not the 2 Star Michelin Restaurant this time.
A relaxing day.
1 October 2012
Well today we are checking out and heading off to London. The flight does not leave until 11.45pm so we have the whole day to fill in.
As we are not required to book out until 12 noon we go for a bit of wander around the hotel looking for “the Ladies Market”. We find it but as it doesn’t start until midday we have a coffee and a bite and head back to the Hotel to finish packing and book out. Then back to the ladies market….more of the same and stuff not as good as the Stanley Market so we don’t buy much.
Then we take the ferry to Hong Kong Island and have a look around the very flash shops. Prada, Armani and Versace. Wow who has that much money? The silliest thing we saw was a shop for Armani Junior. You can deck out that precious child so he or she looks a bit like shrunken version of the catwalk heroes. Who would have thought that in a communist country we could see the worst excesses of capitalism gone mad?
Back to Kowloon to pick up our less expensive but very nicely tailored clothes. Everything fits like a glove and both Margie & I are pretty happy. The new white dinner jacket looks very smart and would look even better if the head coming out the top wasn’t quite so rough.
Although we had booked out we could still use the hotels facilities so a session in the steam room and good shower washed away some of the days grime. Some fresh clothes and we off to find a Vietnamese restaurant that wasn’t too far off.
In this part of Kowloon seeing westerners in such a restaurant is a bit of a novelty and not everyone speaks or understands any English. However if you have money they are happy to see you and again the food is pretty good (still have to request some more chilli). Margie has pho. They just call it soup here as she is still struggling with blocked sinus and headaches. With 3 Vietnamese beers the bill is almost AU$100 and the food not as good as Minhs in Sydney.
Today is a holiday and fireworks are scheduled for 9pm. Just as we are travelling to the airport, bugger. I don’t think the taxi driver is too keen on missing it either though you never hear a complaint.
goodbye Hong Kong a C21st dialectic
London the first few days
Paying for our indulgence in Business Class last trip. Tonight we are back in row 33 on a Boeing 777 that is all but totally full. Still the 12.5 hour flight is mainly overnight and I get a bit of sleep. At 5.30 am GMT we hit the tarmac at Heathrow and by 7.30am we dropped off by a friendly talkative London Taxi driver at the Savile Club.
The Savile Club, it turns out, is in a very nice neighbourhood at 69 Brook St Mayfair. Just 50 metres up the road from Claridges. The accommodation is very comfortable but I think the lift was in service when Oscar Wilde was a member here. I can imagine that Stephen Fry, who is a current member, would have some trouble getting into its rather enclosed space. It has a history of having members who are involved in the arts and the walls are adorned with sketches, paintings and other memorabilia. The place reeks of the history of the London West End.
They are most accommodating considering our 7.30am arrival and the room is not only ready but spacious and has a walk-in robe and a bath. Margie (who I am sure was allergic to HK) is too unwell, jetlagged and generally stuffed and so she turns in for a nap.
I go for a walk and meet Alex at the door of the Club. He was looking a bit scruffy and I think somewhat apprehensive about coming in. Anyway we decide to let Margie sleep and I go to do some shopping, have a coffee with Alex and catch up on what he has been up to. It was nice to get some one on one time with him as later when we go out to the Pub and have dinner his mother completely monopolizes his attention.
In the evening we meet up with Alex again and have 3 pints at “Blues and nothing but..” a pub in Kingsley St that has live blues. Then go up the road for dinner at the “Red Onion”. Alex looks like he hasn’t eaten much since he left home. The food disappears quickly and as it has been a pretty big day we head back to the Club to turn in.
What a surprise it is raining.
3rd October 2012.
Feeling a lot better after a sleep.
Margie goes off to get a hair cut and I have bit of a stroll around the shops. We meet up with Alex at midday and have lunch in a Pub before heading off to the Queens Theatre, for the matinee of Les Miserables. This is the greatest story ever written. I have seen the Sydney production and watched the video so I am not sure I’ll enjoy it as I usually don’t like seeing things twice. I needn’t have worried. The production was terrific. I got a lot more out if it this time. Alex enjoyed it as he had not seen it live before. The singing was first class and the big ensemble numbers were truly spectacular. Money very well spent. 60 million people can’t be wrong.
Later we are off to Hibiscus, a 2 Michelin star restaurant, about 4 blocks away from the club. We decide to walk and it decides to rain. We make a very undignified entrance to one of London’s finest restaurants looking half drowned (and Margie had just had her hair done.)
Oh well we make the best of it. Hibiscus is a different type of restaurant. There is no menu just a list of items the chef may use and you just decide if you want 3,6 or 8 courses with or without matching wines. We take the 6 courses with wine. I am going to write separately about all the different restaurants we eat at so you will have to wait for that.
This was a really special meal. It encompassed both the art of food and the flavour. This is a rare thing.
What a memorable day. Great theatre and then great food.
The Savile Club, it turns out, is in a very nice neighbourhood at 69 Brook St Mayfair. Just 50 metres up the road from Claridges. The accommodation is very comfortable but I think the lift was in service when Oscar Wilde was a member here. I can imagine that Stephen Fry, who is a current member, would have some trouble getting into its rather enclosed space. It has a history of having members who are involved in the arts and the walls are adorned with sketches, paintings and other memorabilia. The place reeks of the history of the London West End.
They are most accommodating considering our 7.30am arrival and the room is not only ready but spacious and has a walk-in robe and a bath. Margie (who I am sure was allergic to HK) is too unwell, jetlagged and generally stuffed and so she turns in for a nap.
I go for a walk and meet Alex at the door of the Club. He was looking a bit scruffy and I think somewhat apprehensive about coming in. Anyway we decide to let Margie sleep and I go to do some shopping, have a coffee with Alex and catch up on what he has been up to. It was nice to get some one on one time with him as later when we go out to the Pub and have dinner his mother completely monopolizes his attention.
In the evening we meet up with Alex again and have 3 pints at “Blues and nothing but..” a pub in Kingsley St that has live blues. Then go up the road for dinner at the “Red Onion”. Alex looks like he hasn’t eaten much since he left home. The food disappears quickly and as it has been a pretty big day we head back to the Club to turn in.
What a surprise it is raining.
3rd October 2012.
Feeling a lot better after a sleep.
Margie goes off to get a hair cut and I have bit of a stroll around the shops. We meet up with Alex at midday and have lunch in a Pub before heading off to the Queens Theatre, for the matinee of Les Miserables. This is the greatest story ever written. I have seen the Sydney production and watched the video so I am not sure I’ll enjoy it as I usually don’t like seeing things twice. I needn’t have worried. The production was terrific. I got a lot more out if it this time. Alex enjoyed it as he had not seen it live before. The singing was first class and the big ensemble numbers were truly spectacular. Money very well spent. 60 million people can’t be wrong.
Later we are off to Hibiscus, a 2 Michelin star restaurant, about 4 blocks away from the club. We decide to walk and it decides to rain. We make a very undignified entrance to one of London’s finest restaurants looking half drowned (and Margie had just had her hair done.)
Oh well we make the best of it. Hibiscus is a different type of restaurant. There is no menu just a list of items the chef may use and you just decide if you want 3,6 or 8 courses with or without matching wines. We take the 6 courses with wine. I am going to write separately about all the different restaurants we eat at so you will have to wait for that.
This was a really special meal. It encompassed both the art of food and the flavour. This is a rare thing.
What a memorable day. Great theatre and then great food.
London to Salisbury, Stonehenge, St Austell
Today we say goodbye to London for the moment. I have arranged a hire car and we are travelling to Salisbury. Everything’s going fine until I arrive at the hire car depot without my license. Then both my credit cards are rejected. Margie has her license so we get the formalities started while I sort out the credit card issue. The banks, got bless them, have decided to put a stop on my cards because of all the overseas activity on them. Not a thought of notifying the cardholder. Just wait until he calls after suffering the embarrassment of having his card rejected.
Then we have to negotiate the drive across London to pick up Alex and our luggage and then back to the car depot to produce my license but finally we are on our way. Two and a half hours later we are negotiating St Annes Crescent in the medieval part of Salisbury looking for our accommodation. Soon we are booked in and our host (George) tells us that the Cathedral Choir will be performing at 5.30 in the Cathedral grounds. Time for a quick coffee and then off to the magnificent Cathedral. It turns out that there is a special service to invest several bishops. We sit through the whole service wondering at the choir with the boys voices soaring into the upper reaches of the cathedral. This takes sound to a new level. It is not hard to understand how people who lived in tiny mud and thatch houses and had no understanding of reading or writing could have believed that some greater being must have had a hand in creating such a impressive structure. Also it helps me to understand the part such establishments played in the economic fabric of medieval society. Marx was right. It was all about economics in the end. Even when we dress it up as spiritualism or faith or marriage it is basically just about money. Build the biggest and most impressive Cathedral and the market follows as then do the people and the economy. original inhabitants of the Salisbury area, or at least the first to leave any evidence of their existence were called “the beaker folk”. They were the first ones to build anything at Stonehenge. These folk built the original ditches around the current structures and they are thought to have had wooden piers in or adjacent to those ditches. This occurred around 3100BC. At some stage later a number of holes were built for some unknown reason and these were later used as burial holes. They are called the Aubery holes. Not because Aubery is a good name for a hole but because they were first identified by John Aubrey a 17th Century archaeologist. Later the smaller inner rings, consisting of stones some 2 metres high were constructed. This apparently happened about 2600 BC. The stones weighed over 4 tonnes and may have been transported from Wales ( a long way to take carry such a massive stone without any equipment. A modern attempt to recreate the trip failed when the stones fell from the raft built for the purpose and sank). Later, perhaps a thousand years later, the larger stones in the outer circle were put there. These were over 4 metres high and weighted over 20 tonnes. I cannot see how the ancient people could have possibly managed this feat. Again an example of man’s folly or else the whole thing was obviously built by aliens perhaps as some galactic sign post or stellular McDonalds. Before we leave Salisbury I need to go back to the Cathedral and check out one of only 4 of the original copies of the Magna Carta, a document of great significance to lawyers and all free people of the world. Following the capitulation of King John at Runnymede copies of the Magna Carta were made and distributed to all parts of England. Only 4 of those copies survive today and one of those original copies is in the Charter House at Salisbury Cathedral. It is real living history. Paragraph 39 reads “No free man shall be seized or imprisoned, or stripped of his rights or possessions, or outlawed or exiled. Nor will we proceed with force against him except by the lawful judgement of his equals or by the law of the land. To no one will we sell, to no one deny or delay right or justice.” I feel in reading these words that it is a pity that every politician does not have to take a lesson in history and the Magna Carta before they start meddling with some of our fundamental rights. I buy a couple of copies of the Great Charter (one a facsimile in the original Latin and the other a translation). I am thinking I’ll mount these along with my favourite quote from Blackstone so I can remind myself of the fundament sense and simplicity of ancient ideas. When we leave Salisbury it is off to St Austell in Cornwell the region from which my mother’s father’s family came prior to his father settling in the south island of New Zealand. It’s a bleak day now and the rain is setting in. I t is difficult to see much but we finally find the Pier House at Charlestown and Kelly books us in. Nice Pub and despite the fact that it is over 250 years old the rooms have good facilities and the restaurant is first class. I have a medley of local seafood and Margie has the sole. I have scallops to start but the standouts are Margie’s & Alex’s mussels which are the plumpest and juiciest that I can every recall having. |